MEASURING & CUTTING

1. 1.Start by measuring and marking the ceiling board for length.
2. 2.Holding the T-Square firmly along the mark, score through the board liner face with a trimming knife.
3. 3.To complete the cut, lift the board and fold the offcut away from the scored face. Then run the trimming knife through the back liner paper at the fold.

TIP: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE

4. 4.To make openings for electrical wiring/fixtures, measure and mark their location on the plasterboard sheet. Cut the small holes with a keyhole saw. For neat round holes, use a hole-saw drill attachment.

IMPORTANT!

Make sure you countersink the screws just below the plasterboard's surface so they can be filled later, taking care not to break the paper face. A counter-sinking drill bit attachment will help to prevent over-screwing.

1. 4.Repeat the process for the next sheet, ensuring they are butted neatly together. To reduce the possibility of joint cracking, use a technique called back blocking (see below).
2. 5.Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 24 hours - or 48 hours in cool conditions.

BACK BLOCKING

Back-blocks are plasterboard panels attached to the back of joints to minimise cracking due to extreme climatic conditions or timber shrinkage.

1. 1.Cut plasterboard strips to fix across the back of the joints in the ceiling boards. Apply USG Boral Cornice Adhesive to the panels and fit the back-block over the centre of the joint.
2. 2.Temporarily fasten the back block into place with 40mm plasterboard laminating screws. Do not drive them in too far, as you'll be removing them later before you finish the joint.
3. 3.Then fit the second ceiling board onto the frame, following the same procedure as before and screw it into the back block.
4. 4.Leave to dry for 24 - 48 hours and then remove the screws.

NEXT STEP:

Jointing and finishing your ceiling - to create a smooth surface before decorating. Watch the video for Jointing and finishing plasterboard.